30 November

People I Love: The “Meat Maestro,” Dennis Yushak

by Jon Katz

I’ve decided to call my portrait series “People I Love,” I’ve learned the best portraits I take are always of the people I love. There is a chemistry  between the photographer and the subject, I think something comes through in their faces if there is a bond between them and the photographer.

Dennis Yushak is the co-owner of Yushak’s Deli In Shusan, New York. Shushan is a neat village, off the beaten track. Yushak’s is a big draw, one of those rare but fascinating businesses that people will come to no matter where they are, even off in the country.

In the country, we tend to have few institutions, but Dennis is one of them. He took over management of the venerable deli years ago when his father died.

Since then, he has carved out a successful niche for himself, restaurants and people come from as far away as Albany to buy his highly regarded meats and sausages (tonight he is teaching a sausage class to 15 people at the deli). He invited me to come and take pictures. I can’t, I have Bingo at the Mansion.

The meat is part of the draw, but it mostly comes from Dennis, who has a charisma and charm that is fast fading in American commerce. Dennis knows everybody by name, and remembers every by name, their wives and kids as well.

He also remembers

It seems his wife Debbie actually runs the place, but Dennis the soul.

A long-suffering New York Mets fan – Dennis knows how to talk to people –  he has a rueful, courteous, old-fashioned way about him.

He also has a dry sense of humor. From time to time, I love to come in and take his portrait, he is a local treasure and much-loved for himself as well as his specialty, his meats.

Dennis is also tiptoeing onto social media, he even has a Facebook Page offering Sunday dinners for people  to take out. At first, Dennis was horrified when I started taking his photo.

I’ve known Dennis ever since I moved to Colfax Mountain more than a decade ago. I remember how much it meant to me to come down from the mountain on those cold and snowy mornings, Dennis was always friendly, happy to talk, eager to help.

I have this odd sense that caring and courteous people are fading from our lives as corporations gobble up the world. Dennis reminds me that this is not universally true. He is a good reason to live in the country.

Now,  he just smiles.

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