Provincetown is, by American standards, an old place, and it does not evoke new culture, but traditional notions of intellectual life and arts. The bookstore has no computer and purchases are recorded in a spiral notebook. There are no e-books and you see few e-book readers. The staff is reserved and grumpy, the selection esoteric and unyielding. Sometimes I think of this store as the last bookstore. The self-portrait is accidental. And I got a new cap, not a baseball cap.